Gauge in the Round

Today’s video shows how to work up a couple of different kinds of gauge swatches for garments knit in the round.

The first swatch I present is a Speed Swatch. For a video on how to create a speed swatch, see: https://www.chaiknucklesknitting.com/blog/2018/4/26/galloway-cardigan-knitting-a-speed-swatch-video

For the speed swatch:

• Cast on 40 stitches.

• Work 4 rows of seed stitch (or garter stitch)

• Work chart (this one has a four-stitch repeat over 14 rows)

• Work 4 rows of seed stitch (or garter stitch)

• Bind off

The second swatch is knit completely in the round.

For the swatch in the round:

• Cast on 100 stitches.

• K 1 round

• P 1 round

• Work chart

• k 1 round

• P 1 round

• K 1 round

• Bind off

Two videos follow. The first one covers the majority of the topic. The second very short video covers how to measure row gauge.

Enjoy!

Geiger Cardigan: Cable Gauge Swatches

Preparing for the Geiger Cardigan, I knitted two swatches. One was based on the Lower Left Sleeve Chart (page 24), and one used the Upper Left-Leaning Cable Chart (page 21).

This post will give instructions for these two different swatches and will show how I measured gauge.

NOTE: The page numbers in the PDF that I downloaded from Ravelry are different from the page numbers in the printed version you may have purchased from your local yarn shop. When in doubt refer to the title text, not the page number.

Swatch #1: Rib Cabled Cast On, Lower-Left Sleeve and Picot Bind Off

Here’s a photo of the completed swatch:

Instructions for Swatch #1:

I used US 5 (3.75mm) needle (based on my SS swatch) and Brooklyn Tweed Arbor in Humpback colorway.

1. Following LEFT SLEEVE instructions on page 17, cast on 71 sts using the Rib Cabled Cast On as described in “Special Techniques” section of the pattern on page 27.

2. Work “Next Row (RS)”

3. Work “Next Row (WS)”

4. Work the WORK RIBBING section:

   1. Work “Next Row (RS)” This is a row with a decrease taking you down to 70 sts.

   2. Work “Next Row (WS)”

   3. Work “Next Row (RS)”

   4. Go back and work “Next Row (WS)” one more time.

5. Work the BEGIN MAIN FABRIC AND SHAPE SLEEVE section. (Starts at Row 1 of the “Lower Left Sleeve Chart” on page 24.)

   1. Work “Sleeve Increase Row (RS) WITHOUT DOING THE m1 INCREASES.

   2. Work “Next Row (WS)”

   3. Work “Next Row (RS)”

   4. Work “Next Row (WS)”

   5. Repeat steps 3 and 4 until you have completed row 40 of the “Lower Left Sleeve Chart. “

6. Bind off using the Picot Bind Off method described in the next to the last step on page 19.

7. Block the swatch and allow to completely dry.

8. The bottom of the swatch measured across the 56 stitches from the “Lower Left Sleeve Chart” should measure 6 1/2 inches as shown in this photo:

Swatch #2: Upper Left-Leaning Cable

Here’s a photo of the completed swatch:

Instructions for Swatch #2:

I used US 5 (3.75mm) needles with Brooklyn Tweed Arbor in the Vintner colorway. This is the color I chose for the sweater.

1. Cast on 38 sts.

2. (RS) Work 5 sts in seed stitch, place marker, work row 1 of “Upper Left-Leaning Cable Chart,” place marker, work 5 sts in seed stitch.

3. (WS) Work 5 sts in seed stitch, slip marker, work row 2 of “Upper Left-Leaning Cable Chart,” slip marker, work 5 sts in seed stitch.

4. Continue working “Upper Left-Leaning Cable Chart” bounded by 5 stitches of seed stitch on each end until you have completed 32 rows of the chart.

5. Bind off in pattern.

6. Block and allow to dry completely.

7. The bottom of the chart should measure 3 inches wide across the 28 stitches in the “Upper Left-Leaning Cable Chart” as shown in this photo below:

Geiger Cardigan: Measuring SS Gauge

I’ll be teaching a class on the Geiger Cardigan by Norah Gaughn at the Hillsborough Yarn Shop in Hillsborough, NC starting in May 2019. This video covers how to measure and calculate gauge on the stockinette stitch swatch for this pattern.

For stockinette stitch gauge swatch:

•       Cast on 30 sts

•       Work 40 rows in stockinette stitch (k all stitches in 1 row, p all stitches in next row, repeat)

•       Block swatch and allow to thoroughly dry

To mark for measuring:

•       Weave contrasting lighter-weight yarn into right side

•       Weave contrasting lighter-weight yarn into left side

•       Weave contrasting lighter-weight yarn into bottom row

•       Weave contrasting lighter-weight yarn into top row

To measure and calculate stitch gauge:

•       Measure from left to right yarn to 1/8 of an inch (inches)

•       Count number of stitches from left to right yarn (sts)

•       Divide number of stitches by inches (sts/in)

•       Multiply sts/in x 4 (sts per 4 inches)

To measure and calculate row gauge:

•       Measure from bottom to top yarn to 1/8 of an inch (inches)

•       Count number of rows from bottom to top yarn (rows)

•       Divide number of rows by inches (rows/in)

•       Multiply rows/in x 4 (rows per 4 inches)

 Here is a photo of the swatch blocking:

Galloway Cardigan: Adjusting for Row Gauge (sleeve example)

This is a handout I used for the Galloway Cardigan class that I'm teaching at Hillsborough Yarn Shop that explains how to adjust sleeve increases if your round gauge is different than the pattern calls for.

Galloway Cardigan - Colorwork Swatch (measuring step-by-step)

The colorwork swatch for the Galloway Cardigan has finished drying. A couple of reminders --- I cast on 29 stitches and worked rows 36 through 63 of the colorwork chart. The pattern gauge calls for 20 stitches and 22 rounds in colorwork per 4 inches. 

Step 1: Setting borders for measuring. I sewed bright red contrast yarn at: (A) the bottom of a row of stitches at the top of the swatch (B) the top of a row of stitches at the bottom of the swatch (C) the right of a column of stitches on the right side of the swatch (D) the left of the column of stitches on the left side of the swatch. 

These will act as borders for measuring. Notice that the threads are sewn in about 3 or 4 stitches from the border. Border stitches are normally irregular, so it's important to measure in a few stitches to get an accurate measurement. 

Step 2: Measuring for stitch gauge. I usually measure with an opaque ruler.  

• Lay the ruler evenly over a row of stitches near the middle of the swatch.

• Measure from left side to right side and don't include the contrast thread.

• Make note of this measurement in inches up to an eighths of an inch. In my example here, my swatch measures 4 7/8 inches or 4.875 inches.

Step 3: Count stitches. 

• Count the number of stitches between your left and right border. Sometimes it helps to follow a column of stitches with your eye as you count.

• You should have woven your contrasting yarn along the edge of a column of stitches. If you by chance wove one of them through the middle of a column of stitches, be sure to count the half stitch that you bisected with the contrasting yarn.

• Make note of this number of stitches. In my example here, I counted 23 stitches.

Step 4: Calculate stitches per ONE inch: Even though gauge in the pattern is measured in 4 inches, I knit a swatch wider than 4 inches. The bigger your swatch, the more accurate your measurements, because you are counting over a larger sample. To calculate gauge: 

• Divide your number of stitches (in my case, 23) by measured inches (in my case, 4.875)

• This gives you stitches per ONE inch. (in my case, 4.718 stitches per one inch)

Step 5: Calculate stitches per FOUR inches:

Calculating stitches per four inches is easy. Just multiply your stitches per one inch (in my case, 4.718) by 4 inches. In my example this comes out to 18.87 stitches per FOUR inches. 

The pattern gauge is 20 stitches per four inches, so I'm not meeting pattern gauge. 

Why stitch gauge is important:

Let's take an example from our pattern. For the smallest size, after you finish the bottom ribbing, you have 216 stitches in the garment. If you are getting the pattern gauge of 20 stitches per 4 inches (or 5 stitches per inch), at this point your garment would measure 43.2 inches (216/5) (this would be without the button band). At my gauge of 18.87 stitches per 4 inches (or 4.718 stitches per inch), my garment would measure 45.78 inches (216/4.718). This would be 2.5 inches bigger than the pattern calls for. 

I am getting LESS stitches per 4 inches than the pattern calls for. If I want to squeeze more stitches into 4 inches, I will need to have smaller stitches, which means I need to go down a needle size. 

I like to use ping pong balls (stitches) in a box (an inch) to explain this.  The pattern says I should have 5 ping pong balls in my box. I can only fit 4.72 ping pong balls in my box. They're too big. If I want to fit my ping pong balls in the box, my ping pong balls need to be smaller. I need to use a smaller needle. 

Step 6: Measuring row (round) gauge

• Lay the ruler evenly over a column of stitches near the middle of the swatch.

• Measure from top to bottom and don't include the contrast thread.

• Make note of this measurement in inches up to an eighths of an inch. In my example here, my swatch measures 4 3/8 inches or 4.375 inches.

Step 7: Count rounds 

• Count the number of rounds between your top and bottom border. Sometimes it helps to follow the color chart provided with the pattern.

• Make note of this number of rows. In my example here, I counted 23 rounds.

Step 8: Calculate rounds per ONE inch: Even though gauge in the pattern is measured in 4 inches, I knit a swatch taller than 4 inches. The bigger your swatch, the more accurate your measurements, because your counting over a larger sample. To calculate round gauge: 

• Divide your number of rounds (in my case, 23) by measured inches (in my case, 4.375)

• This gives you rounds per ONE inch. (in my case, 5.26 rounds per one inch)

Step 9: Calculate stitches per FOUR inches:

Calculating rounds per four inches is easy. Just multiply your rounds per one inch (in my case, 5.26) by 4 inches. In my example this comes out to 21 rounds per FOUR inches. 

The pattern gauge is 20 rounds per four inches, so I'm not meeting pattern gauge. I'm not going to change my needle size based on this, but in parts of the sweater that involve length (arms, specifically), I'll recheck my round gauge again and decide if I need to knit less rounds. 

Both on my Lice Stitch swatch and my Colorwork swatch, it looks like I'm getting a similar stitch gauge, so I may be able to use the same needle for both. I'm going to concentrate now on getting the correct gauge and I'll report back soon on what I decided. 

Galloway Cardigan - Colorwork Swatch (knitting and blocking)

Here are some photos of the Galloway Cardigan Colorwork swatch being knitted and blocked. The post after this one will cover step-by-step measuring the swatch and calculating gauge. 

This is the front side of the swatch after it has been knit.  I cast on 29 stitches. That includes 3 repeats (6 x 3 = 18) plus 7 with 4 (2 + 2) edge stitches. The speed swatch instructions say to knit the first two stitches and the last two stitches using the two colors doubled up. 

I knit the first stitch with the two strands that I brought across the back from the previous row. I knit the second stitch with the two colors that I will be working for the new row. I knit the last two stitch in the two colors that end that row. 

For this swatch I worked rows 36 through 63. I'm not sure if I got the colors right because the pattern has the chart in shades of gray. I decided to make a new chart using Excel and my real colors so that I won't get confused as I knit. 

This is the back of the colorwork swatch after knitting.

Following is the colorwork swatch pinned out for blocking and drying. 

Galloway Cardigan - Lice Swatch (measuring)

My Lice Stitch swatch for the Galloway Cardigan finished drying, and I'm ready to measure for gauge. This post will take you through the process of measuring the swatch and calculating gauge. 

First I start out by sewing a contrasting yarn into the borders of the swatch to use as measuring guides. One strand through the stitches at the top of the swatch:

One strand through the stitches at the bottom of the swatch.

One strand through the right side of a column of stitches running up the right side of the swatch.

One strand through the left side of the column of stitches running up the left side of the swatch:

Next I measured for stitch gauge. I put a ruler across the middle of the swatch lining the zero up against the left border and following a line of "lice" in a straight line.  My ruler is only 5 inches, and my swatch is wider than 5 inches, so I just counted how many stitches I have in 5 inches. 

I count 22 and 1/2 stitches in 5 inches. Here is a picture showing the individual stitches:

So, here's how I calculate gauge. I want to figure out stitches per inch, so I divide the stitches I counted (22.5) by the inches I measured (5) and get 4.5 stitches per inch.  The gauge stated in the pattern is 20 stitches per 4 inches.  So I need to multiply my stitches per ONE inch by 4. I get 18 stitches per 4 inches (4.5 stitches per inch times 4). I knit this swatch with a size 7 needle. I am getting less stitches per inch than the pattern calls for. This means that my stitches are BIGGER that the pattern gauge. Since my stitches are bigger, I can fit LESS of them in 4 inches. I'm going to need to switch to a smaller needle, so that my stitches are SMALLER and I can fit MORE of them in 4 inches. I'm going to pull out the yarn in this swatch and knit another with a size 6 needle. 

In any pattern, the stitch gauge determines how wide your piece will be, and you generally want to match stitch gauge to the pattern. The row gauge determines the length of your garment. If you don't meet the pattern row gauge, you can generally knit more or less rows in the pattern to have it come out to the length you want. I'll show you my row gauge measurement here and how I calculate it, but this gauge won't determine which needle size I use. 

I count 27 rows in 4 inches, which is 6.75 rows per inch.  The pattern calls for 28 rows per inch. 

So, I'm off to re-swatch the lice pattern. 

Galloway Cardigan - Lice Swatch (knitting and blocking)

Today I started on the Galloway Cardigan by Jared Flood. This is a lovely and complex pattern that requires THREE gauge swatches to determine needle size. The first swatch is done in the Lice section of the Galloway chart and should be 20 stitches & 28 rounds = 4". The recommended needle size is US 7 (4.5mm). 

The pattern repeat is 6 stitches +7. I wanted to do a swatch bigger than 20 stitches, so I calculated 18 stitches + 7 stitches for the repeat, plus the 4 extra stitches (2 on each side) that Jared instructs in the Speed Swatching section of the pattern.  

I cast on 29 stitches using a US 7 needle, and followed the Speed Swatching instructions. I left VERY LONG floats in the back of the swatch, because I want to have the ability to reuse the yarn if I run short. Jared's instructions talk about cutting the yarn in back before blocking, but I know that if I cut the yarn, it will no longer be useable. 

I used Old World (dark blue - Color A) and Fossil (natural- Color B) colorways. I only carried the Fossil in the back of the rows where the lice occur. When not in use, I carried the Fossil with the Old World up the right hand side and used them together to knit the first two stitches of each row. 

Here's the front and the back of the swatch as it gets further along. There is a 5-stitch float between each Lice stitch. I've been catching it behind the third stitch. I'm a little bothered that I can see the capture peeking through the front of the fabric. I'll see what it looks like after I block to decide if I just want to let the float go all five stitches. 

I knit 35 rows (3 and a half vertical repeats) and bound off. This is what the finished front and back look like: 

I put the swatch in my bathroom sink with cold water and a capful of Eucalan. I let the swatch sit for about 15 minutes, then carefully lifted it out and gently squeezed out the excess water. 

I put the swatch on a towel, rolled it up and squeezed out as much water as I could. 

I pinned the top, then the bottom, then the sides of the swatch to the blocking board in 1-inch intervals

I folded the floats under the swatch as I was pinning.  I'll let the swatch dry for about 36 hours. Then I'll unpin it and measure the gauge. That will be covered in a future post.

The swatch used 13 grams of Old World and 3 grams of Fossil.   

Let me know if this helps or if you have any questions in the comments.